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HAIR COLOR
The "color wheel"
If you know the color wheel color
becomes easy...
- It may sound a bit odd but your hair is a mixture of 3 colors;
red yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary
colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel"
a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This
means if your hair is a orange color - blue will make it a brown/black
color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out.
- One of the most important elements of haircoloring is determining
the hairs' "underlying pigmet" (the hairs' natural color.) When
you chose a color in a swatch book, your hair may not come out
that color because of the underlying pigment in your hair.
Underlying color + Artifcial color
= Final result
Levels of Hair Color
1=Black
2=Very Dark Brown
3=Dark Brown
4=Brown
5=Medium Brown
6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blonde
- Types of Haircolor
- Temporary - color lasts from one
shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair
shaft. Semi-Temporary - color lasts
up to 4-6 shampoos. Usually contain no ammonia and does not have
a developer.
- Demi Permanent - color
usually contains little or no ammonia and utilizes a low peroxide
developer (under 10 vol.) the color lasts about 6 weeks and fades
gradually back to the natural shade.
- Semi-Permanent - color usually
contains some ammonia and uses a deloper of 10 to 20 vol.
- Permanent - color formulas change
the natural hair color. They require maintenance to new hair growth
after 4 to 6 weeks. (For the purposes of this guide we will be
discussing Permanent colors and methods of processing only.)
How it Works Before any permanent
color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer
layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the
cortex, or middle layer, to deposit or remove the color. The color
is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos.
These will not permanently change the hair color until they are
part of an oxidation chemical reaction.
-
The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen
peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. lt is the catalyst
or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently
alter the hair's color. The strength of the developer - is determined
by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions.
10
Volume - Color deposit with only slight lightening.
- 20 Volume - Maximum color deposit
as for gray or white hair with lightening
- 30 Volume - . Strong lightening
action with less color deposit.
- Bleaching Boosters - can be added
to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions
. Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights,
cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly.
Color and Highlight Care Tips and Techniques
Color treated hair has special needs and good care is essential
for any hair type. Follow these professional suggestions to keep
your hair looking Fantastic!
- Wet your hair with bottled spring water before getting in a
clorine pool, It will dilute the harsh chemicals
- Be careful in the sun. please use hats, scarves or products
with sunscreens to help protect against color fade and the drying
effects of the sun.
- Great for the beach, leave-in conditioners generally contain
sunscreens to protect against color fade.
- Shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for color-treated
hair. Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair. Condition
regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture
and luster to color treated hair.
- Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help
blend root areas.
- Do not wrap in a towel turban when you get out of the shower
with wet hair. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable
wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.
- Don't brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working
tangles out as you move from the ends toward the scalp.
- Don't overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is
almost, but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent
static.
- Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal
protectant for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation
of the hair.
- Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to
finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection
throughout the day.
- Don't spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.
- Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color
treated hair doesn't mean you can't have a perm. In fact, a perm
specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful
body, fullness and texture to complement your color.
- Always your best source, your Strands stylist can answer any
other questions you might have and recommend professional products
ideal for color-treated hair.
Link:
http://blog.bitcomet.com/hairtips/post_45729/
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